The Grand Palace - Bangkok

Posted: under Bangkok, Historical, Temples.

This morning I had my first chance to see the sights of Bangkok. Mike had arranged for me to have a tour of The Grand Palace with two guides. The palace grounds cover 61 acres on which is Wat Phra Sri Rattana Satsadaram, Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist Temple and the home of the Emerald Buddha. I had an opportunity to see and photograph many of the buildings on the site. It’s hard to describe the size and magnificence of detail, and even photos don’t do it justice. It was as compelling viewing closeup detail of the architecture as it was viewing the vast landscapes. I took over 100 photos, and when I return home I’ll put them in a proper gallery. I am including just a few below — but these by no means tell even a fraction of the story.

At one point on my tour we arrived at a large gate where many tourists were peering through. To my happy surprise my guides opened the gate and took me through, and we were on the private grounds of The Grand Palace. There is a serenity here, apart from the many thousands of tourists and visitors, and I felt as though I was suddenly transported to a truly royal seat of power. While the King does not live here any longer, the Royal Guest House is regularly used for State visitors. Across the huge park square I could see Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

The highlight of the tour was the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Although photos are not allowed inside, I was able to take a long-zoom photo of the Emerald Buddha from just outside the main entrance. You can see it below. After leaving the Temple, I joined in the Buddhist tradition of dipping a white lotus in holy water and dripping it on my head, which will undoubtedly bring me good fortune and make my wishes come true.

My next post will be later this weekend about the river house. It’s simply one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever stayed.

The Emerald Buddha (really made out of jade)

The Emerald Buddha (really made out of jade)

Some of the 112 Garudas protecting the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

Some of the 112 Garudas protecting the Temple of the Emerald Buddha

In front of the Royal Guest House

In front of the Royal Guest House

Comments (4) Feb 06 2009

The River House

Posted: under Food and Drink, Temples.

We spent my first weekend in Thailand at Mike and Lek’s river house. It’s about 40 miles NW of Bangkok and lies on Thailand’s third largest river, Nakhon Chaisri.

The buildings sit on 20 acres. The main house is a work of art both inside and out. The attention to detail is just as I would have expected. The main floor is a greatroom which serves as the living area and dining room, with two-story ceilings everywhere except one corner, where the guest bedroom is situated half a story up. There is a kitchen tucked away around a corner where the cooking staff prepared meal after meal of the best thai food I’ve had.

My bedroom overlooks the outdoor pool. Most of the floors are 150-year-old very wide teak planks from China, with various tiles covering the rest. The entire house is windows, and you’re either looking out over the river or at the pool and yard.

The yard is beautifully landscaped, and currently serves as the main training area for the dogs. There is an air conditioned kennel about 200 yards from the house. Just beyond that is Mike’s aviary where there are about 17 rare and exotic birds, all in pairs and all talking. The aviary surrounds the gymnasium, where Mike also keeps his ham radio equipment and bikes. Just past the gymnasium is Mike’s observatory, an elevated dome above a warm room. The dome houses a 20″ RC scope. Unfortunately I didn’t get a chance to use the scope, as the sky is muddy from humidity this time of year. There is also a TMB 180mm refractor on a portable pier. Maybe next time!

Lek’s father lives in the original house on the property, across the service road. And her brother has a home which is currently being renovated. If you drive around the gym, you will wrap around to the backside of the kennels where two large fields are being prepared to take over the training. Alongside the fields, heading toward the river, is a long straight concrete driveway that doubles as an air strip for Mike’s r/c planes.

At the end of the runway there is construction going on, expected to be completed in 3 months. One building will be a 3-bedroom guest home, complete with common family room. Each bedroom has a large picture window overlooking the river. Next to this building is the new community center, where large parties will be held. It has its own kitchen and will have a wrap around deck. It’s L-shaped, and the L will be Lek’s spa, with massage, steam and other amenities. The new construction is separated from the main house by a narrow channel canal, but a small bridge will be in place soon so it won’t be necessary to drive all the way around the kennel to get to the new buildings.

Mike and Lek’s hospitality is no different here than in Bangkok — superb. They don’t dote on me, and allow me my own schedule.

Every meal is a wide range of thai dishes. The thai food here is nothing like at home — it’s very fresh and very spicy. There are always pork, shrimp, chicken and beef dishes, with soups and other side dishes. Last night I had squid, prawn (a little strange served with eyes still on board), beef, pork, soup — I’m not going hungry here! It’s good there’s a gym or I’d have trouble fitting in my jeans.

The main house with guest house to the right

The main house with guest house to the right

The waterfront side of the house from the boat. The structure to the right is a patio/pavilion

The waterfront side of the house from the boat. The structure to the right is a patio/pavilion

Comments (2) Feb 08 2009

Ayutthaya

Posted: under Historical, Temples.

Today was a day trip with the Flying Kikkerts to the last capital of Thailand, Ayutthaya. Ayutthaya is an interesting conradiction — the history that is represented by magnificent temple and palace ruins is almost completely encased within the lowest standard of living I have experienced. The word slum came to mind. We started the day with an elephant tour, and while I had experienced this already in Chang Mai, the Kikkerts had not. This one was different, and the tour took us on the city streets and through the rundown neighborhoods on the way to trample through the ruins. There were cockfights on the elephant tour company’s property, as well as various tigers which are bred for food export to China.

After the elephants we took a small flat boat around the city/island through the river and canals. I took some photos on this trip, but the story they tell is of the decay and lack of any wealth. Fishermen are looking for prawn, families are bathing in the river water, people are sleeping on mattresses under any overhang they can find. Garbage and even dead dogs litter the river. After I returned to Bangkok and described this to Mike, he told me that so many areas of the world are worse off than this, I just haven’t traveled to them yet.

We had a short lunch then walked around the ruins of The Grand Palace, built almost 600 years ago. The ruins were magnificent.

We returned to Bangkok, and I’m in the kitchen with a bunch of the guys while Lek hosts a dinner party for 17 friends.

A young tiger at the elephant complex

A young tiger at the elephant complex

One of the nicer homes along the river

One of the nicer homes along the river

Every boat is customized. If it can float, it's on the water.

Every boat is customized. If it can float, it's on the river

Huge monitor lizards live in the river

Huge monitor lizards live in the river

A local child beats the heat in the river

A local child beats the heat in the river

Prawning in the river

Prawning in the river

Standing in the ruins of the Grand Palace

Standing in the ruins of the Grand Palace

Ruins of the Grand Palace

Ruins of the Grand Palace

Comments (2) Feb 17 2009